Rev Counter for Mopeds

Older mopeds are not usually fitted with a rev counter, which is a bit of a shortcoming. The making or finding of a suitable indicator instrument or display is often the greatest obstacle for the hobbyist. The author of this circuit has devised a practical solution to this problem in the shape of a (cheap) bicycle computer. Such bicycle computer is easily attached to the handle-bars and it usually has a large and very readable display.

The moped engine’s generator is used to detect the rev speed. The generator is connected directly to the engine drive shaft and generates an AC voltage for the on-board electrical system. The frequency of this voltage corresponds with the rev speed of the engine. This frequency, however, is too high to be used directly by the bicycle computer. The solution for this is to divide the frequency of the signal by 16, using a binary counter of the type 7493, before connecting it to the cycle computer.

 

Rev Counter for Mopeds Schematic

Hobby-and-Modelling

The generator signal is first rectified by D1, R1 and D2 and then limited to 2.5 V. Transistor T1 turns it into a usable logic signal. Counter IC1 contains four flip-flips, one after the other, which divides the signal by 16. This signal drives, via T2, the white LED D3. LDR R6 reacts to the blinking LED and is connected to the cycle computer in place of the supplied wheel sensor.  The generator signal also sup-plies the power for the circuit. D4/C1 provide rectification and filtering, after which the voltage is regulated to 5 V byT3 and D4.

For a correct read-out (calibrated rev counter), the bicycle computer needs to be adjusted for a wheel circumference of 889 mm or 89 cm (wheel diameter 28 inch).  Make sure that when building the circuit it is suitably protected against vibration and moisture. Mount the LED and LDR directly opposite each other and keep in mind that they need to be well shielded from ambient light.

LM1812 Ultrasonic-Transceiver

The LM1812 is a complete ultrasonic transceiver on a chip designed for use in a variety of pulse-echo ranging applications. The chip operates by transmitting a burst of oscillations with a transducer, then using the same transducer to listen for a return echo. Ifan echo of sufficient amplitude is received, the LM1812 detector puts out a pulse of approximately the same width as the original burst. The closer the reflecting object, the earlier the return echo.

Ultrasonic-Transceiver Circuit Diagram

Ultrasonic-Transceiver-Circuit-Diagram

Echos could be received immediately after the initial burst was transmitted, except for the fact that the transducer rings. When transmitting, the transducer is excited with several hundred volts peak to peak, and it operates in a loudspeaker mode. Then, when the LM1812 stops transmitting and begins to receive, the transducer continues to vibrate or ring, even though excitation has stopped. The transducer acts as a microphone and produces an ac signal initially the same amplitude as the transmit pulse. This signal dies away as is governed by the transducer"s damping factor, but as long as detectable ringing remains, the LM1812"s detector will be held on, masking any return echos.

Flashing Lights for Planes and Helicopters

There are two sorts of lights on aircraft: red or white flashing lights, which are called ‘anti-collision lights’, and steady lights, red on the tip of the left wing, green on the tip of the right wing, and white at the tail, called ‘position lights’, which enable an observer to see if the aircraft is approaching or going away. On the tip of each wing, in addition to the steady lights, there may also be flashing white strobe lights. The position light simulator given here takes a few liberties with the real position lights, making them flash (it’s more fun!) and using a little trick to simulate the strobe effect.

Flashing Lights for Planes and Helicopters Circuit Diagram :

Flashing-Lights for Planes-and Helicopters-Circuit Diagram

The well-known NE555 is found in its SMD version for the timebase, combined with a 4017 decade counter with ten decoded outputs, also in SMD version. Normally, each output is used independently. In this circuit, two out-puts are coupled with a one-output gap: Q0 and Q2 (front left, red LED), Q1 and Q3 (rear left, red LED), Q5 and Q7 (front right, green LED), Q6 and Q8 (rear right, green LED). To avoid the low output’s shorting the High output, a diode is used in series with each output. In this way, we get ‘double flashing’ of each LED, giving the strobe effect.

Output Q4 is used for the tail of the plane (white LED) or helicopter (red LED) with a single flash, without the strobe effect. Output Q9 is used for the reset.Only one LED is lit at any given moment, so the consumption is kept low so as not to reduce battery life in flight. The 150 Ω resistor limits the supply voltage/current to each LED. The circuit’s power rail (4.5 V) can be taken from an unused output on the model’s decoder. A sub-miniature switch could be fitted if necessary, but since a plane or helicopter is required to have its lights on at all times…

 

Author : Jean-Louis Roche - Copyright: Elektor

Oil Temperature Gauge for 125 cc Scooter

Lots of Far-Eastern scooters are fitted with GY6 engines. These already elderly units are sturdy and economical, but if you want to  “push” the power a bit (so called ‘Racing’  kits, better handling of the advance, etc.), you soon find yourself faced with the problem  of the engine temperature, and it becomes essential to f it a heat sink (of ten wrongly  referred to as a ‘radiator’) on the oil circuit. Even so, in these circumstances, it’s more than reassuring for the user to have a constant clear indication of the oil temperature. Here are the specifications we set for the temperature gauge we wanted to build:

Oil Temperature Gauge Circuit Diagram :

Oil Temperature Gauge-Circuit Diagram

  • no moving parts (so not meter movement), as scooters vibrate a lot!;
  • as cheap as possible (around £12);
  • robust measuring transducer (avoid NTC thermistors and other ‘exotic’ sensors);
  • temperature range 50–140 °C. (122 – 291 °F);
  • audible and visual warning in case of dangerous temperature;
  • compact;
  • waterproof.

Let’s start by the sensor. This is a type-K thermocouple, as regularly used by multimeter manufacturers. Readily available and fairly cheap, these are robust and have excellent linearity over the measurement range we’re interested in here. The range extends from 2 mV to 5.7 mV for ten measurement points. The positive output from the thermocouple is applied to the non-inverting input of IC3.A,  wired as a non-inverting amplifier. Its gain  of 221 is determined by R1 and R2. IC3 is an LM358, chosen for its favourable characteristics when run from a single-rail supply. IC3.B is wired as a follower, just to avoid leaving it powered with its pins floating.

IC3.B output is connected to pin 5 of IC1, an LM3914. This very common IC is an LED display driver. We can choose ‘point’ or ‘bar’ mode operation, according to how pin 9 is connected. Connected as here to the + rail, the display will be in ‘bar’ mode. Pin 8, connected to ground, sets the full scale to 1.25 V. R3 sets the average LED current. Pin 4, via the potential divider R7/R8+R9, sets the offset  to 0.35 V. Using R8 and R9 in series like this avoids the need for precision resistors.

As per the LM3914 application sheet , R4-R5-R6 and C5 will make the whole display flash as soon as D10 lights (130 °C = 226 °F). Simultaneously, via R10 and T1, the (active) sounder will warn the user of overheating. Capacitor C6 avoids undesirable variations in the reference voltage in ‘flashing’ mode. IC2 is a conventional 7808 regulator and C1– C4 filter the supply rails. Do not leave these out! D1 protects the circuit against reverse polarity.

The author has designed two PCBs to be fit-ted as a ‘sandwich’ (CAD file downloadable  from [1]). In the download you’ll also find  a document with a few photos of the project. You’ll note the ultimate weapon in on-board electronics: hot-melt glue. Better than epoxy (undoable!) and quite effective against vibration.

Author : Georges Treels - Copyright : Elektor

Auto Focus for Slide Projector

This circuit is intended as a replacement for the electronics in a partly or wholly defective autofocus driver in a slide projector. The mechanical parts in the autofocus system are assumed to be still functional.

Auto Focus for Slide Projector Fig. 1 :

 Auto Focus for Slide Projector-Fig-1 

Most automatic focusing systems in slide projectors  are based on the use of an optical module, which comprises a small lamp, a few lenses and mirrors, and a light sensor made from two series connected light dependent resistors (LDRs), which function as a potential divider. As shown in Fig. 1, lamp La projects a narrow beam onto the centre of the slide, A, whose surface reflects it onto the LDRs. When the slide surface bulges inside or outside, the projected image on the screen is blurred, and the beam from L is received on the surface of one of the LDRs (point 2 or 3). This is detected by a motor driver circuit, which ensures that the focal distance between the objective, 0, and the slide surface is corrected to maintain a sharp image, i.e., the objective is moved until the circuit detects that the reflected beam from L falls exactly in between the LDRs (point 1).

Auto Focus for Slide Projector Fig. 2 :

Auto Focus for Slide Projector-Fig-2

The circuit is based on the use of an existing set of  LDRs as part of the optical module in the slide projector. The symmetrical supply shown to the left,  and the motor plus decoupling capacitor, are also part of the projector. The inverting input of opamp IC1  is at ground potential when the above mentioned test beam falls in between the LDRs. The output of the opamp keeps the non-inverting input at 0 V as well, so that no motor voltage is available  at the emitters of power drivers Ti T2. Should the  reflected beam illuminate either one of the LDRs, the circuit arranges for the motor to move the objective glass towards the correct focal position, until no  voltage difference between the LDRs is detected.  The feedback gain of the circuit has been kept relatively low to keep the motor from continuously moving the objective glass past the target position, causing the system to oscillate slowly. Resistors R3 and R4 may have to be dimensioned differently than shown to achieve optimum response as regards speed and stability.

Cheap Bicycle Alarm Schematics Circuit

The author wanted a very cheap and simple alarm for some of his possessions, such as his electrically assisted bicycle. This alarm is based on a cheap window alarm, which has a time-switch added to it with a 1-minute time-out. The output  pulse of the 555 replaces the reed switch in the window alarm. The 555 is triggered by a sensor mounted near the front  wheel, in combination with a magnet that is mounted on the spokes. This sensor and the magnet were taken from a cheap bicycle computer.

Circuit diagram :

Cheap Bicycle Alarm-Circuit Diagram

Cheap Bicycle Alarm Circuit Diagram

The front wheel of the bicycle is kept unlocked, so that the reed  switch closes momentarily when the wheel turns. This  triggers the 555, which in turn activates the window alarm. The circuit around the 555 takes very little current and can  be powered by the batteries in the window alarm.  There  is just enough room  left inside the enclosure of the window  alarm to mount the time-switch inside it.

The result is a very cheap, compact device, with only a single cable going to the reed switch on the front wheel. And the noise this thing produces is just unbelievable! After about one minute the noise stops and the alarm goes back into standby mode. The bicycle alarm should be mounted in an inconspicuous place, such as underneath the saddle, inside a (large) front light, in the battery compartment, etc.

Hopefully the alarm scares any potential thief away, or at least it makes other members of the public aware that something isn't quite right.

Caution. The installation and use of this circuit may be subject to legal restrictions in your country, state or area.

 

Author : Gerard Seuren – Copyright : Elektor

Lighting Up Model Aircraft

This circuit provides aircraft modellers with extremely realistic beacon and marker lights at minimum  outlay. The project ’s Strobe out-put (A) provides four brief pulses repeated periodically for the wing  (white strobe) lights. In addition the Beacon output (B) gives a double pulse to drive a red LED for indicating the aircraft’s active operational status. On the proto-type this is usually a red rotating  beacon known as an Anti-Collision Light (ACL). The circuit is equally useful for road vehicle modellers, who can use it to flash headlights and blue emergency lights.

Circuit diagram :

Lighting Up Model Aircraft-Circuit Diagram

Lighting Up Model Aircraft Circuit Diagram

All signals are generated by a 4060 14-stage binary counter and some minimal output selection logic. Cycle time is determined by the way the internal oscillator is con-figured (resistor and capacitor on pins 9/10) and can be varied within quite broad limits. High-efficiency LEDs are your first choice for the indicators connected to the Bea-con and Strobe outputs (remember to fit series resistors appropriate to the operating voltage Ub and the current specified for the LED used).

The sample circuit is for operating voltages between 5 and 12 V. Cur- rent flow through the two BS170 FET devices must not exceed 500 mA.

Author : Werner Ludwig - Copyright : Elektor

Simple Steam Whistle

This circuit consists of six square wave oscillators. Square waves are made up of a large number of harmonics. If six square waves with different frequencies are added together, the result will be a signal with a very large number of frequencies. When you listen to the result you’ll find that it is very similar to a steam whistle. The circuit should be useful in modelling or even in a sound studio.

Circuit diagram :

Simple Steam Whistle-Circuit Diagram

Simple Steam Whistle Circuit Diagram

This circuit uses only two ICs. The first IC, a 40106, contains six Schmitt triggers, which are all configured as oscillators. Different frequencies are generated by the use of different feedback resistors. The output signals from the Schmitt triggers are mixed via resistors. The resulting signal is amplified by IC2, an LM386. This IC can deliver about 1 W of audio power, which should be sufficient for most applications. If you leave out R13 and all components after P1, the output can then be connected to a more powerful amplifier. In this way a truly deafening steam whistle can be created. The ‘frequency’ of the signal can be adjusted with P2, and P1 controls the volume.

Whistling Kettle

Most electric kettles do not produce a whistle and just switch off when they have boiled. Fitting a box of electronics directly onto an electric kettle (or even inside!) to detect when the kettle has boiled is obviously out of the question. The circuit shown here detects when the kettle switches off, which virtually all kettles do when the water has boiled. In this way, the electronics can be housed in a separate box so that no modification is required to the kettle. The box is prefer-ably a type incorporating a mains plug and socket.

Cap

In this application, the current flowing in coil L1 provides a magnetic field that actuates reed switch S1. Since the current drawn by the kettle element is relatively large (typically 6 to 8 amps), the coil may consist of a few turns of wire around the reed switch. The reed switch is so fast it will actually follow the AC current flow through L1 and produce a 100-Hz buzz. The switching circuit driven by the reed switch must, therefore, disregard these short periods when the contacts open, and respond only when they remain open for a relatively long period when the kettle has switched off.

Circuit diagram :

Whistling Kettle Circuit d

Whistling Kettle Circuit Diagram

The circuit is based on a simple voltage controlled oscillator formed around T2 and T3. Its operation is best understood by considering the circuit with junction R4/R5 at 0 V and C4 discharged. T2 will receive base current through R5 and turn on, causing T3 to turn on as well. The falling collector voltage of T3 is transmitted to the base of T2 by C4 causing this transistor to conduct harder. Since the action is regenerative, both transistors will turn on quickly and con-duct heavily. C4 will therefore charge quickly through T2’s base-emitter junction and T3. Once the voltage across C4 exceeds about 8.5 V (leaving less than 0.5 V across T2’s b-e junction), T2 will begin to turn off. This action is also regenerative so that soon both transistors are switched off and the collector volt-age of T3 rises rapidly to +9 V. With C4 still charged to 8.5 V, the base of T2 will rise to about 17.5 V holding T2 (and thus T3) off. C4 will now discharge relatively slowly via R5 until T2 again begins to conduct whereupon the cycle will repeat. The voltage at the collector of T3 will therefore be a series of short negative going pulses whose basic frequency will depend on the value of C4 and R5. The pulses will be reproduced in the piezo sounder as a tone.

The oscillation frequency of the regenerative circuit is heavily dependent on the voltage at junction R4/R5. As this voltage increases, the frequency will fall until a point is reached when the oscillation stops altogether. With this in mind, the operation of the circuit around T1 can be considered. In the standby condition, when the kettle is off, S1 will be open so that C1 and C2 will be discharged and T1 will remain off so that the circuit will draw no current. When the kettle is switched on, S1 is closed, causing C1 and C2 to be discharged and T1 will remain off. C3 will remain discharged so that T2 and T3 will be off and only a small current will be drawn by R1. Although S1 will open periodically (at 100 Hz), the time constant of R1/C1 is such that C1 will have essentially no voltage on it as the S1 contacts continue to close.

When the kettle switches off, S1 will be permanently open and C1/C2 will begin to charge via R1, causing T1 to switch on. C3 will then begin to charge via R4 and the falling voltage at junction R4/R5 will cause T2/T3 to start oscillating with a rising frequency. However, once T1 has switched off, C3 will no longer be charged via R4 and will begin to discharge via R3 and R5 causing the voltage at R4/R5 to rise again. The result is a falling frequency until the oscillator switches off, returning the circuit to its original condition. As well as reducing the current drawn by the circuit to zero, this mimics the action of a conventional whistling kettle, where the frequency rises as more steam is produced and then falls when it is taken off the boil.

The circuit is powered directly by the mains using a ‘lossless’ capacitive mains dropper, C6, and zener a diode, D2, to provide a nominal 8 V dc supply for the circuit.  A 1-inch reed switch used in the prototype required about 9 turns of wire to operate with a 2-kW kettle element. Larger switches or lower current may require more turns. In general, the more turns you can fit on the reed switch, the better, but do remember that the wire has to be thick enough to carry the current. It is strongly recommended to test the circuit using a 9-volt battery instead of the mains-derived supply voltage shown in the circuit diagram. A magnet may be used to operate S1 and so simulate the switching of the kettle.

Warning. This circuit is connected directly to the 230-V mains and none of the components must be touched when the circuit is in use. The circuit must be housed in an approved ABS case and carry the earth connection to the load as indicated. Connections and solder joints to components with a voltage greater than 200 volts across them (ac or dc) must have an insulating clearance of least 6 mm. An X2 class capacitor must be used in position C6.

Author :Bart Trepak  –Copyright : Elektor

Portable Muscular Bio-Stimulator

This is a small, portable set, designed for those aiming at look improvement. The Bio-Stimulator provides muscles' stimulation and invigoration but, mainly, it could be an aid in removing cellulite. Tape the electrodes to the skin at both ends of the chosen muscle and rotate P1 knob slowly until a light itch sensation is perceived. Each session should last about 30 - 40 minutes.

Circuit diagram :

Portable Muscular Bio-Stimulator-Circuit Diagram

Portable Muscular Bio-Stimulator Circuit Diagram

C1 generates 150µSec. pulses at about 80Hz frequency. Q1 acts as a buffer and Q2 inverts the polarity of the pulses and drives the Transformer. The amplitude of the output pulses is set by P1 and approximately displayed by the brightness of LED D1. D2 protects Q2 against high voltage peaks generated by T1 inductance during switching.

Parts :

  • P1-----4K7 Linear Potentiometer
  • R1-----180K   1/4W Resistor
  • R2-----1K8  1/4W Resistor (see Notes)
  • R3-----2K2  1/4W Resistor
  • R4-----100R   1/4W Resistor
  • C1-----100nF  63V Polyester Capacitor
  • C2-----100µF  25V Electrolytic Capacitor
  • D1-----LED  Red 5mm.
  • D2-----1N4007  1000V 1A Diode
  • Q1,Q2-----BC327  45V 800mA PNP Transistors
  • IC1-----7555 or TS555CN CMos Timer IC
  • T1-----220V Primary, 12V Secondary 1.2VA Mains transformer (see Notes)
  • SW1-----SPST Switch (Ganged with P1)
  • B1-----3V Battery (two 1.5V AA or AAA cells in series etc.)

Notes :

  • T1 is a small mains transformer 220 to 12V @ 100 or 150mA. It must be reverse connected i.e. the 12V secondary winding across Q2 Collector and negative ground, and the 220V primary winding to output electrodes.
  • Output voltage is about 60V positive and 150V negative but output current is so small that there is no electric-shock danger.
  • In any case P1 should be operated by the "patient", starting with the knob fully counter-clockwise, then rotating it slowly clockwise until the LED starts to illuminate. Stop rotating the knob when a light itch sensation is perceived.
    Best knob position is usually near the center of its range.
  • In some cases a greater pulse duration can be more effective in cellulite treatment. Try changing R2 to 5K6 or 10K maximum: stronger pulses will be easily perceived and the LED will shine more brightly.
  • Electrodes can be obtained by small metal plates connected to the output of the circuit via usual electric wire and can be taped to the skin. In some cases, moistening them with little water has proven useful.
  • SW1 should be ganged to P1 to avoid abrupt voltage peaks on the "patient's" body at switch-on, but a stand alone SPST switch will work quite well, provided you remember to set P1 knob fully counter-clockwise at switch-on.
  • Current drawing of this circuit is about 1mA @ 3V DC.
  • Some commercial sets have four, six or eight output electrodes. To obtain this you can retain the part of the circuit comprising IC1, R1, R2, C1, C2, SW1 and B1. Other parts in the diagram (i.e. P1, R3, R4, D1, D2, Q2 & T1) can be doubled, trebled or quadrupled. Added potentiometers and R3 series resistors must be wired in parallel and all connected across Emitter of Q1 and positive supply.
  • Commercial sets have frequently a built-in 30 minutes timer. For this purpose you can use the Timed Beeper the Bedside Lamp Timer or the Jogging Timer circuits available on this Website, adjusting the timing components to suit your needs.

Disclaimer: we can't claim or prove any therapeutic effectiveness for this device.

Source : www.redcircuits.com

UV Torch Light

UV (ultra-violet) LEDs can produce eye-catching effects when their light is allowed to interfere with certain colours, particularly with reflected light under near-dark conditions. Also try shining some UV light on a diamond.

Circuit diagram :

UV Torch Light-Circuit Diagram

 UV Torch Light Circuit Diagram

Most UV LEDs require about 3.6 V (the ‘blue’ diode voltage) to light. Here, a MAX761 step-up switching IC is used to provide constant current to bias the UV diode. The IC employs PWM in high-cur-rent mode and automatically changes to PFM mode in low or medium power mode to save (battery) power. To allow it to be used with two AA cells, the MAX761 is configured in bootstrapped mode with voltage-adjustable feedback. Up to four cells may be used to power the circuit but they may add more weight than you would like for a torchlight.

To prolong the switch life, R1 is connected to the IC’s SHDN (shutdown) pin. Less than 50 nA will be measured in shutdown mode. Electrolytic capacitor C1 is used to decouple the circuit supply voltage. With-out it, ripple and noise may cause instability. The one inductor in the circuit, L1, may have any value between about 10 and 50 µH. It stores current in its magnetic field while the MOSFET inside the MAX761 is switched. A toroid inductor is preferred in this position as it will guarantee low stray radiation. D1 has to be a relatively fast diode so don’t be tempted to use an 1N400x because it has a too slow recovery time.

The circuit efficiency was measured at about 70%. R2, the resistor on the feed-back pin of the MAX761 effectively determines the amount of constant current, I, sent through the UV LEDs, as follows: R2 = 1.5 / I

where I will be between 2 mA and 35 mA.

Zener diode D4 clamps the output voltage when the load is disconnected, which may happen when one of the UV LEDs breaks down. Without a load, the MAX761 will switch L1 right up to the boost voltage and so destroy itself.

 

Author : Myo Min – Copyright : Elektor

Converting a DCM Motor

We recently bought a train set made by a renowned company and just couldn’t resist looking inside the locomotive. Although it did have an electronic decoder, the DCM motor was already available 35 (!) years ago. It is most likely that this motor is used due to financial constraints, because Märklin (as you probably guessed) also has a modern 5-pole motor as part of its range. Incidentally, they have recently introduced a brushless model.

The DCM motor used in our locomotive is still an old-fashioned 3-pole series motor with an electromagnet to provide motive power. The new 5-pole motor has a permanent magnet. We therefore wondered if we couldn’t improve the driving characteristics if we powered the field winding separately, using a bridge rectifier and a 27 Ω current limiting resistor. This would effectively create a permanent magnet. The result was that the driving characteristics improved at lower speeds, but the initial acceleration remained the same. But a constant 0.5 A flows through the winding, which seems wasteful of the (limited) track power. A small circuit can reduce this current to less than half, making this technique more acceptable.

Circuit diagram :

Converting a DCM Motor-Circuit Diagram

Converting a DCM Motor Circuit Diagram

The field winding has to be disconnected from the rest (3 wires). A freewheeling diode (D1, Schottky) is then connected across the whole winding. The centre tap of the winding is no longer used. When FET T1 turns on, the current through the winding increases from zero until it reaches about 0.5 A. At this current the voltage drop across R4-R7 becomes greater than the reference voltage across D2 and the opamp will turn off the FET. The current through the winding continues flowing via D1, gradually reducing in strength. When the current has fallen about 10% (due to hysteresis caused by R3), IC1 will turn on T1 again. The cur-rent will increase again to 0.5 A and the FET is turned off again. This goes on continuously.

The current through the field winding is fairly constant, creating a good imitation of a permanent magnet. The nice thing about this circuit is that the total current consumption is only about 0.2 A, whereas the current flow through the winding is a continuous 0.5 A.

We made this modification because we wanted to convert the locomotive for use with a DCC decoder. A new controller is needed in any case, because the polarity on the rotor winding has to be reversed to change its direction of rotation. In the original motor this was done by using the other half of the winding.

There is also a good non-electrical alter-native: put a permanent magnet in the motor. But we didn’t have a suitable magnet, whereas all electronic parts could be picked straight from the spares box.

Author : Karel Walraven – Copyright : Elektor

Long-Delay Stop Switch

Presettable times for train stops in stations are indispensable if you want to operate your model railway more or less realistically according to a timetable. This circuit shows how a 555 timer can be used with a relatively small timing capacitor to generate very long delay times as necessary by using a little trick (scarcely known among model railway electronic technicians): pulsed charging of the timing net-work. Such long delays can be used in hidden yards with through tracks, for instance.  As the timer is designed for half-wave operation, it requires only a single lead to the transformer and one to the switching track or reed contact when used with a Märklin AC system (H0 or H1). The other lead can be connected to any desired grounding point for the common ground of the track and lighting circuits.

Circuit diagram :

Long-Delay Stop Switch-Circuit Diagram

Long-Delay Stop Switch Circuit Diagram

As seen from the outside, the timer acts as a monostable flip-flop. The output (pin 3) is low in the quiescent state. If a negative signal is applied to the trigger input (pin 2), the output goes high and C4 starts charging via R3 and R4. When the voltage on C4 reaches 2/3 of the supply voltage, it discharges via an internal transistor connected to pin 7 to 1/3 of the supply voltage and the output (pin 3) goes low. The two threshold values (1/3 and 2/3) are directly proportional to the supply voltage. The duration of the output signal is independent of the supply voltage: t= 1.1(R4 + R5) × C4

if the potentiometer is connected directly to the supply line (A and B joined). The maximum delay time that can be generated using the component values shown in the schematic diagram is 4.8 minutes. How-ever, it can be increased by a factor of approximately 10 if the timing network is charged using positive half-waves of the AC supply voltage (reduced to the 10–16-V level) instead of a constant DC voltage.

The positive half-waves of the AC voltage reach the timing network via D2, the transistor, and D3. Diode D3 prevents C4 from being discharged between the pulses. The total resistance of R4 and R5 should not be too high (no more than 10 MΩ if possible), since electrolytic capacitors (such as are needed for C4) have significant leakage currents. Incidentally, the leakage current of aluminium electrolytic capacitors can be consider-ably reduced by using a supply voltage well below the rated voltage. Capacitor C6 is intended to suppress noise. It forms a filter network in combination with an internal voltage-divider resistor.

If a vehicle happens to remain standing over the reed switch so the magnet holds the contacts constantly closed, the timer will automatically be retriggered when the preset delay times out. In this case the relay armature will not release and the locomotive will come to the ‘end of the line’ in violation of the timetable. This problem can be reliably eliminated using R6, R7 and C5. This trigger circuit ensures that only one trigger pulse is generated, regardless of how long the reed switch remains closed. RC network R8/C7 on the reset pin ensures that the timer behaves properly on switch-on (which is far from being something to be taken for granted with many versions of the 555 or 556 dual timer).

Reed switches have several special characteristics that must be kept in mind when fitting them. The contact blades, which are made from a ferromagnetic material, assume opposite magnetic polarities under the influence of a magnetic field and attract each other. Here the position and orientation of the magnet, the distance between the magnet and the reed switch, and the direction of motion of the magnet relative to the switch are important factors. The fragility of the glass hous-ing and the thermal stress from soldering (stay at least 3 mm away from the glass housing) require a heat sink to be used between the soldering point and the glass/metal seal. A suitable tweezers or flat-jawed pliers can be used for this pur-pose. If you need to bend the leads, use flat-jawed pliers to protect the glass/metal seal against mechanical stresses.

Matching magnets in various sizes are available from toy merchants and electronics mail-order firms. They should preferably be fitted underneath the loco-motive or carriage. However, the magnet can also be fitted on the side of a vehicle with a plastic body. In this case the reed switch can be hidden in a mast, bridge column or similar structure or placed in a tunnel, since the distance must be kept to less than around 10 mm, even with a strong magnet. If fitting the circuit still presents problems (especially with Märklin Z-gauge Mini-Club), one remedy is to generate the trigger using a unipolar digital Hall switch, such as the Siemens TLE4905L or Allegro UGN3120. To avoid coupled-in interference, the stop timer should be fitted relatively close to the Hall sensor (use screened cable if necessary). Pay attention to the polarity of the magnet when fitting it to the bottom of the vehicle. With both types of sensors, the South pole must point toward the front face of the Hall IC (the face with the type marking). The North pole is sometimes marked by a dab of paint. Generally speaking, the polarity must be determined experimentally.

Fitting the circuit is not a problem with Z-gauge and 1-gauge tracks, since the distance between the iron parts (rails) and the Hall switch is sufficiently large. In an HO system, some modifications must be made to the track bed of the Märklin metal track. Cut a suitably sized ‘window’ between one wheel rail and the centre rail in order to prevent secondary magnetic circuits from interfering with the operation of the sensor. Keep the distance between the magnet and the case of the Hall switch between 5 and 10 mm, depending on the strength of the magnet, to ensure reliable actuation.

RGB Solar Lamp

This deluxe solar-powered light  uses a battery and solar cells salvaged from a solar lamp with a four-cell battery (4.8 V nominal terminal  voltage).

Circuit diagram :

RGB Solar Lamp-Circuit Diagram

RGB Solar Lamp Circuit Diagram

The circuit can operate from any  DC voltage around this value and  its current consumption, at 20 mA,  is low. This means that the battery  can give up to five days of operation. The circuit consists of an Atmel  ATtiny microcontroller which drives  a red, a green and a blue LED directly  from three port pins. Series resistors are of course included to limit  the LED current. The microcontroller  drives the LEDs in sequence to produce an  RGB running light effect. The microcontroller  is also responsible for ensuring that the light automatically switches on when it gets dark  and off when it is light. The light sensor is  made from one of the solar cells from a bro-ken solar lamp (it is more common  for the battery to fail rather than  the solar cells).

The power output of this cell is not  important, as the microcontroller  only measures its output voltage  using its internal A/D converter  connected to pin PB4. The project is  ideal for beginners, as a ready-programmed microcontroller is avail-able from the Elektor Shop (order  code 100581-41).

The author developed the firmware  using Flowcode. Source and hex  files for the firmware are available  for free download from the project  pages on the Elektor website at: www.elektor.com

 

Author : Marcel Ochsendorf - Copyright : Elektor

Model Railway Short-Circuit Beeper

Short circuits in the tracks, points or wiring are almost inevitable when building or operating a model railway. Although transformers for model systems must be protected against short circuits by built-in bimetallic switches, the response time of such switches is so long that is not possible to immediately localise a short that occurs while the trains are running, for example. Furthermore, bimetallic protection switches do not always work properly when the voltage applied to the track circuit is relatively low.

Circuit diagram :

Model Railway Short-Circuit Beeper-Circuit Diagram

Model Railway Short-Circuit Beeper Circuit Diagram

The rapid-acting acoustic short-circuit detector described here eliminates these problems. However, it requires its own power source, which is implemented here in the form of a GoldCap storage capacitor with a capacity of 0.1 to 1 F. A commonly available reed switch (filled with an inert gas) is used for the current sensor, but in this case it is actuated by a solenoid instead of a permanent magnet. An adequate coil is provided by several turns of 0.8–1 mm enamelled copper wire wound around a drill bit or yarn spool and then slipped over the glass tube of the reed switch. This technique generates only a negligible voltage drop. The actuation sensitivity of the switch (expressed in ampèreturns or A-t)) deter-mines the number of turns required for the coil. For instance, if you select a type rated at 20–40 A-t and assume a maxi-mum allowable operating current of 6 A, seven turns (40 ÷ 6 = 6.67) will be sufficient. As a rule, the optimum number of windings must be determined empirically, due to a lack of specification data.

As you can see from the circuit diagram, the short-circuit detector is equally suitable for AC and DC railways. With Märklin transformers (HO and I), the track and lighting circuits can be sensed together, since both circuits are powered from a single secondary winding.

Coil L1 is located in the common ground lead (‘O’ terminal), so the piezoelectric buzzer will sound if a short circuit is present in either of the two circuits. The (positive) trigger voltage is taken from the lighting circuit (L) via D1 and series resistor R1. Even though the current flowing through winding L1 is an AC or pulsating DC current, which causes the contact reeds to vibrate in synchronisation with the mains frequency, the buzzer will be activated because a brief positive pulse is all that is required to trigger thyristor Th1. The thyristor takes its anode voltage from the GoldCap storage capacitor (C2), which is charged via C2 and R2.  The alarm can be manually switched off using switch S1, since although the thyris-tor will return to the blocking state after C2 has been discharged if a short circuit is present the lighting circuit, this will not happen if there is a short circuit in the track circuit. C1 eliminates any noise pulses that may be generated.

As a continuous tone does not attract as much attention as an intermittent beep, an intermittent piezoelectric generator is preferable. As almost no current flows during the intervals between beeps and the hold current through the thyristor must be kept above 3 mA, a resistor with a value of 1.5–1.8 kΩ is connected in parallel with the buzzer. This may also be necessary with certain types of continuous-tone buzzers if the operating current is less than 3 mA. The Zener diode must limit the operating voltage to 5.1 V, since the rated volt-age of the GoldCap capacitor is 5.5 V.

 

Author : R. Edlinger - Copyright  : Elektor

Flashing-LED Battery-status Indicator

Signals when an on-circuit battery is exhausted 5V to 12V operating voltage

A Battery-status Indicator circuit can be useful, mainly to monitor portable Test-gear instruments and similar devices. LED D1 flashes to attire the user's attention, signaling that the circuit is running, so it will not be left on by mistake. The circuit generates about two LED flashes per second, but the mean current drawing will be about 200µA. Transistors Q1 and Q2 are wired as an uncommon complementary astable multivibrator: both are off 99% of the time, saturating only when the LED illuminates, thus contributing to keep very low current consumption.

Circuit diagram :

Flashing-LED Battery

Flashing-LED Battery-status Indicator Circuit Diagram

The circuit will work with battery supply voltages in the 5 - 12V range and the LED flashing can be stopped at the desired battery voltage (comprised in the 4.8 - 9V value) by adjusting Trimmer R4. This range can be modified by changing R3 and/or R4 value slightly.

When the battery voltage approaches the exhausting value, the LED flashing frequency will fall suddenly to alert the user. Obviously, when the battery voltage has fallen below this value, the LED will remain permanently off. To keep stable the exhausting voltage value, diode D1 was added to compensate Q1 Base-Emitter junction changes in temperature. The use of a Schottky-barrier device (e.g. BAT46, 1N5819 and the like) for D1 is mandatory: the circuit will not work if a common silicon diode like the 1N4148 is used in its place.

Parts :

R1,R7__________220R  1/4W Resistors
R2_____________120K  1/4W Resistor
R3_______________5K6 1/4W Resistor
R4_______________5K  1/2W Trimmer Cermet or Carbon
R5______________33K  1/4W Resistor
R6_____________680K  1/4W Resistor
R8_____________100K  1/4W Resistor
R9_____________180R  1/4W Resistor

C1,C2____________4µ7  25V Electrolytic Capacitors

D1____________BAT46  100V 150mA Schottky-barrier Diode
D2______________LED  Red 5mm.

Q1____________BC547   45V 100mA NPN Transistor
Q2____________BC557   45V 100mA PNP Transistor

B1_______________5V to 12V Battery supply

Notes :

  • Mean current drawing of the circuit can be reduced further on by raising R1, R7 and R9 values.

Source : Red Circuits

 

Wire Loop Game

In the ‘Wire Loop Game’, a test of dexterity,  the player has to pass a metal hoop along a  twisted piece of wire without letting the hoop  touch the wire. Usually all the associated electronics does is ring a bell to indicate when the  player has lost. The version described here has  a few extra features to make things a bit more  exciting, adding a time limit to the game and a ticking sound during play.

Two 555 timer ICs are used to provide these  functions. IC1 is configured as a monostable which controls the time allowed for the  game, adjustable using potentiometer P1. IC2  is a multivibrator to provide the ticking and Two 555 timer ICs are used to provide these  functions. IC1 is configured as a monostable which controls the time allowed for the  game, adjustable using potentiometer P1. IC2  is a multivibrator to provide the ticking and he continuous buzz that indicates when the  player has touched the wire with the hoop.

Circuit diagram :

Wire Loop Game-Circuit Diagram

Wire Loop Game Circuit Diagram

When the monostable is in its steady state,  the output of IC1 (pin 3) is low. T1 acts as  an inverter, and D2 is thus forward biased.  R8 and R4 are therefore effectively in parallel, with the result that IC2 produces a low audible tone. The value of R4 is considerably  greater than that of R8, and so the frequency  of the buzz generated by IC2 is chiefly deter-mined by the value of R8.

When the monostable is triggered, the high  level at the output of IC1 is again inverted  by T1. D2 is reverse biased and so R8 is effectively removed from the circuit. The frequency of IC2 is now largely determined by  the value of R4. The ratio of R4 to R5 and the  value of C4 affect the mark and space periods for the multivibrator: for a satisfactory  ticking sound short pulses with long gaps  between work well.

Whether a sound is produced also depends  on the voltage on pin 4 of IC2. When the 9 V  supply is connected the monostable is initially inactive and there is no voltage across  C1. Pin 4 (reset) on IC2 is thus low and no tone  is produced. IC1 is activated by a brief press of  S1, which generates a low-going trigger signal  on pin 2 to start the game. C1 now charges via  D1 and IC2 is allowed to oscillate, generating  the ticking sound.

The pulse width of the monostable sets the  game duration, and can be adjusted using  P1. If the allowed time expires, or if the reset  input to IC1 is taken low (which happens when the hoop touches the wire), the monostable  returns to the quiescent state. This causes IC2  to generate the low buzz sound. D1 is now  reverse biased and C1 discharges through the  relatively high-valued resistor R9. After a few  seconds the voltage across C1 falls sufficiently  that the buzz stops and the circuit is ready for  the next player.

The circuit can be built first on a breadboard,  so that the component values can easily be changed to suit particular preferences for  game duration and buzz pitch. When suitable  values have been selected the circuit can be  built more permanently on a printed circuit  board. The author used a sheet of plywood  to form a base for the game, the twisted wire  being fixed to the board and wired to the electronics mounted below it.

Author: Andreas Binner - Copyright:Elektor

Acoustic Distress Beacon

An ELT (Emergency Locator Transmitter, also known as a distress beacon) is an emergency radio transmitter that is activated either manually or automatically by a crash sensor to aid the detection and location of aircraft in distress. This acoustic ELT project is intended for radio control (RC) model aircraft, which every now and then decide to go their own way and disappear into the undergrowth.

Circuit diagram :

Acoustic Distress Beacon-Circuit Diagram

Acoustic Distress Beacon Circuit Diagram

The audio locating device described here enables model aircraft that have landed ‘off limits’ to be found again and employs its own independent power supply. The small cam-era battery shown in the circuit activates an acoustic sounder when radio contact is lost and produces a short signal tone (bleep) every ten seconds for more than 25 hours. Current consumption in standby and passive (with jumper J1 set) modes is negligible. The timing generator for the alarm tone is the Schmitt trigger AND-gate IC1.B; its asymmetric duty cycle drives a 5 V DC sounder via MOSFET transistor T1. All the time that the RC receiver output is delivering positive pulses, the oscillator is blocked by IC1.A and diode D1. Setting jumper J1 parallel to C2 also disables the oscillator and serves to ‘disarm’ the distress beacon.

Author : Werner Ludwig - Copyright : Elektor

Going for Gold

The title refers to a popular TV game show where the contestants each have a big button.  The  game show  host  asks  a  question and the first contestant to press their but-ton makes an illuminated indicator light up on their desk. The other contestants’ buttons  are automatically inhibited, so that everyone can see who was the first contestant to press their button, and so is allowed to answer the question. The project described here shows how to build a similar sortof  refereeing device yourself, using simple resources and without needing a microcontroller, which is  pretty rare these days! The basic circuit is for  just two contestants, but the modular design  means it can easily be expanded.

 

Circuit diagram :

 Going for Gold-Circuit-Diagram

Going for Gold Circuit Diagram

 

The diagram shows three buttons: S2 and S3  are the buttons for the two contestants, S1 is  the button for the host, which allows them to  reset the circuit before each fresh question.  The ‘brains’ of the circuit is IC1, a 4013 dual D-type flip-flop, of which only the Set and Reset  inputs are used here. This circuit can handle  quite a wide supply voltage range, from 3 to  15 V, and so the project can easily be run off a 4.5 V battery pack (the power consumption is minimal).

 

IC1 is armed by pressing S1 (reset). In this  state, the non-inverting outputs (pins 1 and  13) are at 0 and the inverting outputs (pins 12  and 12) are at 1. Hence line A is pulled high  by R1, since diodes D2 and D4 are not biased  on. If contestant 1 presses button S2, the  non-inverting output of flip-flop IC1a goes  to logic 1, and LED D1 lights via T1 to indicate that contestant 1 has pressed the but-ton. At the same time, the flip-flop’s invert-ing output goes to logic 0, making diode  D2 conduct. Line A is now pulled down to 0,  and consequently contestant 2’s button S3  can no longer trigger the second flip-flop.  The reverse happens if it is contestant 2 who  presses their button S3 first.

 

The circuit can be extended to 4 or 6 contest-ants (or even more) by adding a second or  third (or more) 4013 IC. All you have to do is  repeat the circuit (minus R1, R2, and S1) and connect to the A, B, Vdd, and 0 V lines on the right-hand side.

 

Author : Joseph Kopff - Copyright : Elektor

Digital Step-Km Counter

This circuit measures the distance covered during a walk. Hardware is located in a small box slipped in pants' pocket and the display is conceived in the following manner: the leftmost display D2 (the most significant digit) shows 0 to 9 Km. and its dot is always on to separate Km. from hm. The rightmost display D1 (the least significant digit) shows hundreds meters and its dot illuminates after every 50 meters of walking. A beeper (excludable), signals each count unit, occurring every two steps. A normal step was calculated to span around 78 centimeters, thus the LED signaling 50 meters illuminates after 64 steps (or 32 operations of the mercury switch), the display indicates 100 meters after 128 steps and so on.

For low battery consumption the display illuminates only on request, pushing on P2. Accidental reset of the counters is avoided because to reset the circuit both pushbuttons must be operated together. Obviously, this is not a precision meter, but its approximation degree was found good for this kind of device. In any case, the most critical thing to do is the correct placement of the mercury switch inside of the box and the setting of its sloping degree.

Circuit diagram:

digital_step_km_counter_circuit_diagram

Digital Step-Km Counter Circuit Diagram

Parts:

R1 = 22K 1/4W Resistor
R2 = 2.2M 1/4W Resistor
R3 = 22K 1/4W Resistor
R4 = 1M 1/4W Resistor
R5 = 4.7K 1/4W Resistor
R6 = 47R 1/4W Resistor
R7 = 4.7K 1/4W Resistor
R8 = 4.7K 1/4W Resistor
R9 = 1K 1/4W Resistor

C1 = 47nF 63V Polyester Capacitor
C2 = 100nF 63V Polyester Capacitor
C3 = 10nF 63V Polyester Capacitor
C4 = 10µF 25V Electrolytic Capacitor

D1 = Common-cathode 7-segment LED mini-display (Hundreds meters)
D2 = Common-cathode 7-segment LED mini-display (Kilometers)

Q1 = BC327 45V 800mA PNP Transistors
Q2 = BC327 45V 800mA PNP Transistors

P1 = SPST Pushbutton (Reset)
P2 = SPST Pushbutton (Display)

IC1 = 4093 Quad 2 input Schmitt NAND Gate IC
IC2 = 4024 7 stage ripple counter IC
IC3 = 4026 Decade counter with decoded 7-segment display outputs IC
IC4 = 4026 Decade counter with decoded 7-segment display outputs IC

SW1 = SPST Mercury Switch, called also Tilt Switch
SW2 = SPST Slider Switch (Sound on-off)
SW3 = SPST Slider Switch (Power on-off)

BZ = Piezo sounder
B1 = 3V Battery (2 AA 1.5V Cells in series)

Circuit operation:

IC 1A & IC 1B form a monostable multi vibrator providing some degree of freedom from excessive bouncing of the mercury switch. Therefore a clean square pulse enters IC2 that divides by 64. Q2 drives the LED dot-segment of D1 every 32 pulses counted by IC2. Either IC3 & IC4 divide by 10 and drive the displays. P1 resets the counters and P2 enables the displays. IC1C generates an audio frequency square wave that is enabled for a short time at each monostable count. Q1 drives the piezo sounder and SW2 allows disabling the beep.

Notes:

  • Experiment with placement and sloping degree of mercury switch inside the box: this is very critical.
  • Try to obtain a pulse every two walking steps. Listening to the beeper is extremely useful during setup.
  • Trim R6 value to change beeper sound power.
  • Push P1 and P2 to reset.
  • This circuit is primarily intended for walking purposes. For jogging, further great care must be used with mercury switch placement to avoid undesired counts.
  • When the display is disabled current consumption is negligible, therefore SW3 can be omitted.

Source : www.extremecircuits.net